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CHIDAMBARAM - WHERE THE DIVINE DANCER DWELLS
By Padma Mohan Kumar
Chidambaram is a bustling little town about
250 kilometers south of Chennai and is connected to the metro both by rail
and road. Bus routes link it to various other places in Tamil Nadu. Though
it may not find a prominent place in the tourist’s itinerary, Chidambaram
can boast of quite a few heritage sites. The most important must-see here
is the Nataraja Temple.
The Nataraja Temple of Chidambaram
Chidambaram is synonymous with the famous Nataraja Temple built by the
Chola rulers. It is one of the most ancient and revered temples of Tamil
Nadu. Its origin dates right back to the Chola era (AD 907 to 1310). It is
dedicated to Lord Shiva who is depicted here as the cosmic dancer.
Located in the center of the town, this temple covers an area of 40 acres.
As one approaches the structure one is awestruck by the majestic gopurams
(towers) rearing into the sky. These four lofty towers are situated in the
four directions around the temple and are about 250 feet high. Each
consists of seven tiers and is covered with richly carved images from
Hindu mythology. Each gopuram is embellished with carved images of the
presiding deity Lord Shiva in his various manifestations. But he is
represented as the cosmic dancer only in the innermost shrine.
These towers were built during various eras
in history spanning the period 1118-1517. As one approaches from the
eastern side one can see extensive repairs being carried out on this
tower. Right at the temple entrance itself one is overwhelmed by the
grandeur of it all. Intricately carved figures in various Bharatnatyam
poses gaze down at the visitor as he enters the temple complex. The sight
of women devotees drawing colourful patterns on the floor also greets one
at the doorway.
Massive, carved wooden doors lead to several
halls known as sabhas. The high granite pillars and the roomy interiors
all give an impression of size and space. The Nataraja, that is Shiva in
his manifestation as the cosmic dancer is enshrined in the sanctum known
as the Chit Sabha. It is the holiest shrine in the complex. It is a wooden
structure supported by wooden pillars. The Chit Sabha houses a ruby image
of Shiva as well as a crystal lingam. Five silver-plated steps lead to
this hall. They are known as the five steps of the Panchakshara or the
five syllables of the mantra ’namasivaya’. Images of elephants have been
carved on both sides of these steps. It was on these steps that the Chola
kings used to be anointed.
To the right of Nataraja is another sanctum,
with no idol. This sanctum, which has only an empty space, is known as the
Chidambara Rahasyam. It is considered as a formless manifestation of
Shiva. Shiva is worshipped here as a representation of space, which
according to ancient Indian belief, is one of the five essential elements
of the universe. The temple is known for its Akasa Lingam, which
represents this aspect of Shiva. It is believed that there is an invisible
phallus here. Normally a curtain is placed in front of the sanctum. During
the time of worship this curtain is lifted and lamps are offered, thereby
turning this space into a blaze of light.
The Kanaka Sabha or the Golden Hall, which faces the Chit Sabha, also
rests on an elevated platform. The Chola ruler, Parantaka, who ruled
during the years 907 to 953, provided the golden roof of this shrine. It
is here that devotees gather to get a glimpse of the deity.
The Deva Sabha houses five deities. It is
said that the roof of this hall was originally made of copper but later on
it was covered with gold. The most unique looking hall is the Nritya Sabha
or the dance hall. It is shaped in the form of a chariot drawn by horses,
with fine pillars supporting the ceiling. There is an interesting legend
associated with this hall. Once there was a dance competition between lord
Shiva and Kali. Both these divinities were supreme in this art. However
during the course of the contest, Shiva lifted his left foot towards the
sky in a posture known as the Urdhuva Tandava. It was a typically male
gesture and feminine modesty prevented his opponent from doing the same;
hence she had to accept defeat. Legend has it that she was thus delegated
to the status of a primary deity of the Thillai Kaliamman temple on the
outskirts of Chidambaram. The carvings in the Nritta Sabha represent this
story.
Near the northern tower is the grand Sivakami
Amman temple. The ceiling of this shrine is adorned by traditional
paintings made of vegetable dye. Friezes depicting dancers, drummers and
musicians embellish the surrounding walls of this temple. Just outside the
shrine is the Sivaganga tank. If one were to stand at a certain point near
this tank one can view simultaneously all the four gopurams of the temple
complex.
Another unique structure is the
thousand-pillared hall, which is designed in the form of a chariot. Two
statues of elephants guard the entrance while in the basement there is a
frieze depicting dancing figures. The image of Nataraja is brought here
during the annual festivals. The coronation of the Chola kings used to be
conducted in this hall. In present times youngsters learning music and
dance give their maiden performances in this hall. Live dance performances
have been introduced to the temple recently, in the form of annual dance
festivals.
In one of the corridors in the temple one can see thick ropes lying coiled
up. In the olden days these were used to drag the temple chariots during
the festivals. The intricately carved chariots outside the temple premises
were dedicated to the deities Siva, Parvati and their son Ganesh.
There are legends galore surrounding this
temple. Famous among them is the story of Nandanar a low-caste devotee of
Lord Siva. Owing to his humble origins he was forbidden to enter the
temple town of Chidambaram. Hence he used to worship outside a small Siva
shrine on the outskirts of Chidambaram.
One night he dreamt that the Lord asked him to go to Chidambaram and enter
the temple to pay his obeisance. But Nandanar was prevented by the
officials from entering the temple. They said that Nandanar should walk
through fire to see the Lord and that would cleanse him too. They lit a
huge fire in the temple grounds. Nandanar walked right through it and went
straight towards the deity, merging with the divine form. He thus attained
salvation.
During the 18th century the temple came under
the domination of Hyder Ali the ruler of Mysore. It was used as a fort
during the Anglo-Mysore wars of this period. The British General, Sir Eyre
Coote tried to capture it from the Mysore ruler but his efforts failed.
During this period, the images of Nataraja were housed in another temple
for safety.
Another source of attraction for the tourist
is the little market outside the Nataraja Temple. This place is lined with
rows of shops crammed with intricately carved brass idols and other items
of artistic value as well as earthenware lamps fashioned into the
daintiest shapes. It is difficult to walk away from here without making at
least a few purchases. The lamps are priced at Rs.6 a pair while the
brassware items come within the range of Rs.100.
Other Temples
Chidambaram and its surroundings bear
testimony to the rich architectural heritage of the Chola rulers. The Siva
temple at Gangakondaicholapuram, which is about 50 kilometers away from
Chidambaram, is another fine masterpiece. The mighty Chola ruler Rajendra
1(985-1014) had established his capital here. The massive Siva temple is
replete with rich carvings. A large statue of the bull Nandi, the mount of
the deity adorns the front of the temple. Two gigantic statues of
dwarapalakas (doorkeepers) guard the entrance. Gangakondaicholapuram is
now no more than a little village but the temple is a still remaining
testimony to the past glory of the Chola Empire.
No less remarkable is the Vaishnava temple
Srimushnam situated about 31 kilometers away. The Nayak family who ruled
here in the 17th century built this temple. The front hall or mandapam,
which is shaped like a chariot, is richly embellished with carved figures
of warriors mounted on horses and elephants. The pillars in the center of
the hall bear the carved portraits of the members of the Nayak family.
Historical sites
The area also boasts of sites whose origins go back to hoary antiquity.
Arikamedu, which is about 75 kilometres away, was the earliest Indo-Roman
trading center on the eastern coast. This fact was substantiated by the
discovery of Roman coins and wine jars at the site. Other evidence bears
testimony to the fact that it was a Buddhist center during the Sangam
period (300 B.C. to 300 A.D.).
Poompuhar, which is now hardly more than a remote town about 40 kilometres
away, was once at the height of its glory during the reign of the early
Cholas in the 2nd century AD. It was a port town in those days. It was
also called as Kaveripoompattinam and was known to the ancient Greeks. It
was however submerged in the sea sometime in the 2nd century AD and all
that remained of it was a village. Excavations at the site have yielded
the remains of a number of buildings and statues.
Natural Sites
The areas surrounding Chidambaram abound in scenic beauty. Pichavaram,
which is about 16 kilometers away, is a nature-lover’s delight. This area,
which is spread over 2800 acres, consists of a number of thickly wooded
islands dotting the sea. The visitor to Pichavaram forest not only enjoys
a backwater cruise but can also feast his eyes on rare species of flora
and fauna. Various species of birds such as water snipes, cormorants,
egrets, storks, spoonbills and pelicans frequent this place making it a
paradise for bird lovers.
What to buy
Bhuvanagiri, which is about a 15 minutes’ drive away is a sari lover’s
dream come true. On reaching Bhuvanagiri, one is greeted by the sight of
rows of shops on both sides of the roads. These stores are stocked with
piles of gleaming silks. This market does brisk business during the
festival season. However one can expect royal treatment if one were to
visit the place during other times. November is a wonderful time to visit
this place. The roads are almost empty and the shopkeepers compete with
each other in attracting the visitor towards their shops. Apart from the
lovely Conjeevarams, that Tamil Nadu is famous for, Bhuvanagiri has a
surprise in store. This is the ‘art silk’ sari. These saris, which look
like expensive Conjeevarams, come at a surprisingly affordable range
between Rs.250 to Rs.700. These ‘art silk’ saris definitely solve the
female problem of stocking the wardrobe adequately without burning a large
hole in the pocket.
It is however advisable to be prepared to
bargain. If one is adept at this skill one can pick up a good buy at a
reasonable price. Moreover, awareness of the local language definitely
helps. Bhuvanagiri is also a sari-weaving center. It is due to the labour
of the weavers that the shops are well stocked with these masterpieces
while the prices are kept at a reasonable level. There is also a
co-operative store, which sells only pure silks. Many residents from near
by towns come to this co-operative store to buy their wedding saris. These
saris come in rich colours, and the prices start from Rs.2000 onwards.
Cuisine
As in almost all southern towns one can enjoy sumptuous meals without
making an appreciable dent in the purse. Think Tamil Nadu, and Dosa is one
of the first delicacies that come to the mind. In this respect, the temple
town does not disappoint the visitor. From the simple plain dosa priced at
Rs. 10, the cost can go up to Rs. 50 for the more exotic variations. The
other delicacies like upma vada, pongal idli sambar, tiffin meals can
match the taste and price range of other south Indian cities as well. The
best accompaniment to all these treats is the filter coffee, which is a
must have.
No less tempting are the bakeries, which sell
sponge and butter cakes that literally melt in the mouth. They are so
fluffy and soft, that before one realizes it, one would have finished a
plate full of these treats. Of course, one does need a brave heart before
stepping on the weighing scales a week later.
Another unique and impressive aspect of
Chidambaram is the relative freedom, which women and girls enjoy. It is
not uncommon to see heavily bejeweled women walking through the streets
even late at night, unharmed. Despite its being a small town, one can see
any number of jean-clad girls cycling to their destinations without being
harassed by ogling roadside Romeos.
As said before, Chidambaram may not rank
among India’s most exotic tourist destinations but a visit to this place
would leave one with warm memories, not unlike the nostalgia, which one
would have for home.
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